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RED-KOTE quarts 13.00........


STAYS FLEXIBLE - Will never crack or peel off.
BRIGHT COLOUR - You can see the results.
COVERS RUST - Seals old rust in and prevents future rusting.
SEALS LEAKS - Gets the multitude of pin-holes you can't find.

Red-Kote is a new polymer coating developed by Damon Chemical. Red-Kote is resistant to gasoline, diesel fuel, alcohol and other fuel additives. Its major use is to seal leaking fuel tanks.

Solvents such as methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), acetone, methylene chloride and propylene oxide (POP) will completely dissolve the polymer. Other industrial solvents may affect the coating but not completely dissolve it.

Red-Kote is easy to use if the directions are followed closely. It seals the multitude of small leaks that often form where the straps wrap around the tank. You fix the obvious leaks and Red-Kote seals the rest.

Contrary to what some people will tell you, rust does form inside gas tanks. The cause is condensation and water in gas. Red-Kote seals rust under the coating so it cannot flake off to plug fuel-line filters or cause engine damage. Further rusting is reduced also.

Red-Kote also offers the advantage of not interfering with the reinstallation of the tank. External coatings, especially fibreglass, are sometimes too thick to allow reinstallation with the original straps and bolts.

Some of the specific advantages of Red-Kote are as follows:

1. The coating is very flexible and does not crack as do some of the others. This gives
the repair a much longer life. Tanks coated in 1984 are still doing well.

2. The polymer was specifically chosen because of its tight adhering qualities. In comparison to some other coatings, Red-Kote does not peel off even when the metal is bent. This protects against loosening of the coating by vibration or denting of the tank.

3. Red-Kote dries faster than many other sealers saving you time. You can reduce time further by thinning with Methyl Ethyl Ketone and using two thin coats instead of one thick coat.

4. Red-Kote levels very well. You will not get a wide variation in thickness as with some other coatings.

5. Red-Kote is thicker and usually requires only one coat as opposed to two coats for many other coatings. Holes up to 1/32nd may be coated and sealed safely. Rust is sealed in so that it cannot flake off.

6. The bright red colour is easily visible to you and the customer. You can be sure you didn't miss a spot and the customer can see you did something. Some coatings are almost invisible. The new dye does not leach into gasoline (turning it pink) when the vehicle is not used for long periods of time.

Packaging: Red-Kote is available in one quart metal cans packed 9 per case  . It is backed by our guarantee and our over 53 years of service to the radiator industry.

1. Empty all fuel from tank.

2. Remove sending unit, float, feed lines, filters, anything that could be clogged by the coating.

3. Remove any loose rust by tapping on the tank with a rubber mallet or by tumbling with a piece of chain in the tank. Flush out debris.

4. Clean tank by steaming for about 15 minutes. Boil-out is not recommended because the high alkalinity  removes the tin from the tin plate. A standard water soluble degreasing chemical works well.

5. Any leaks larger than 1/32nd of an inch should be repaired by soldering or your usual method.

6. Make sure that the tank is completely dry before continuing. This is very important. Without a blower, drying may take up to 12 hours. The use of a blower to circulate air through the tank will cut the time to an hour or so. The fastest method is to drain the tank for 5 minutes and then pour 1 pint of Methyl Ethyl Ketone into the tank, slosh thoroughly and pour out. Repeat with a second pint of M.E.K. and you are ready to use Red-Kote immediately. Do not re-use the first pint of M.E.K., instead let it evaporate safely away from flames or sparks. The second pint of M.E.K. may be used as the first pint on the next job. One quart of M.E.K. will only absorb up to 3 ounces of water. This is why it should not be reused.

7. Cover all open holes in the tank by plugging or covering with tape, except the one to be used for pouring in the coating.

8. Pour one to two quarts of Red-Kote into the tank and cover the last opening. You can get by with one quart on tanks of about 12 gallons or less. We recommend two quarts for larger tanks to make sure you get the coating to flow behind all the baffles.

9. Tip the tank onto each side and slosh the coating around to completely cover the inside. Use a rocking motion rather than shaking. It is important to do a thorough job or you may miss parts of the tank behind baffles.

10. Drain out the excess coating and cover tightly to save for reuse. The best method is to stand the tank up with a corner drain hole over a can to collect the excess as it drips out. It is very important that you do not leave puddles in the tank.

11. Open all tank openings to allow the best air flow. Air dry for 8 to 24 hours. When cured there will be almost no solvent smell left in the tank. If the coating is not completely cured before fuel is added the curing process will be stopped. Do not use open flame or an electric element for drying or an explosion may result. Do not blow air into the tank until at  least 60 minutes of drying time have passed. Using air sooner may cause bubbles may form in the coating.

12. If the leaks or rust are severe it is a good idea to use a second coat after the first coat dries completely.

13. Reassemble and install the tank on the vehicle.

14. For clean-up use methyl ethyl ketone, acetone or a quality lacquer thinner with no alcohol in it.

Tips & Hints:
Do not leave the can open to the air as it will thicken or form a skin on top.

When Red-Kote is reused after pouring it back out of a gas tank it may need thinning  before reuse. Red-Kote may be thinned with M.E.K. or Acetone.

Do not use lacquer thinner to dilute Red-Kote.

For removing water from the tank prior to coating you may use acetone. Acetone absorbs much more water than M.E.K. and is less expensive. We do not sell acetone.

Most shops are punching a hole in a corner of the tank to aid in draining it completely. Then they solder in a draincock. Do not solder or weld on the tank after it has been coated. The coating will turn to ash if heated above 250F.

We are told that two  thin coats still take less time to dry than one thick coat.

Red-Kote does not stick well to plastic tanks or to plastic parts inside a gas tank.

Do not coat over other coatings. Remove old coat-ings completely first, using M.E.K. or other solvent. Call us if you have a problem.

Do Not Use in Dry Sump Oil Tanks, oil temps can easily exceed the 250* max temp of this product and cause serious damage to oiling system and or engine causing engine failure.

The two most common problems we see are:
1) Not completely drying the tank of water before coating. Red-Kote will not stick to wet metal. When it dries it will peel off in sheets.

2) Not allowing the Red-Kote to dry completely. If Red-Kote is not completely dry or has puddles left it will form strings or flecks in the gas. These may get past the fuel filter and plug carburettors or injectors.
Puddles of Red-Kote left behind baffles or in corners may never dry completely. This is because a skin forms over the puddles and prevents drying underneath. Once the skin ruptures the Red-Kote forms strings in the gas.

Damon Industries guarantees the product only, not your application of it. After application to over 50,000 cars there have seen 7 problems. All were application errors as described above. There has never seen failure due to ageing. Both of these conditions are prevented easily by proper drying. All problems are correctable by stripping out the Red-Kote with M.E.K. and recoating.

We recommend that you tell your customers not to use fuel additives containing methanol or methyl alcohol.
We have had instances of methanol pulling the red dye out of Red-Kote which turns the gas red. This has not caused any damage to our knowledge. Usually only "cheap" additives contain methanol. Good products contain isopropanol or other solvents. Most engine warranties are voided by the use of methanol anyway.

Do not rush the job. In many cases it will take more than one day to do a job worthy of your time and guarantee. - 3/14/04

MSDS Sheet
DMN0142 Red-Kote Page 1 of 2 9/22/05
Material Safety Data Sheet Number: DMN0142
Product Name: Red-Kote
A liquid fuel tank liner. Revised: 9/22/05
Damon Industries, Inc. 24 hour Emergency Only phone: 1-800-535-5053
Box 2120 Information phone: 1-800-362-9850 or 330-821-5310
Alliance, OH 44601 fax: 330-821-6355
Section 2 - Composition / Information on Hazardous Ingredients
Ingredient C.A.S. No. Percent (w/w) Carcinogen
2-Butanone 78-93-3 60 - 100% No
1,2 Butylene Oxide 106-88-7 1 - 5% No
Section 3 - Hazards Identification
Emergency Overview: Liquid is moderately irritating to the eyes and mildly irritating to the skin. Flammable concentrations of vapours in air are possible, may travel considerable distance and may flash back to the container. Vapours are heavier than air, but the low vapour pressure and evaporation rate make flammable mixtures in the air unlikely. It may be extinguished by CO2, dry chemical or foam. A clear, dark red, viscous liquid with a solvent odour.
Health Hazards: Eye Irritant, Possible Skin Irritant Physical Hazards: Flammable
Primary Routes of Entry: X Through Skin X Inhalation X Ingestion
Potential Health Effects:
Eyes - liquid causes irritation, redness and blurred vision. Sticks to eyes, lids and lashes.
Skin - Prolonged or repeated contact may cause defatting and drying, which may result in skin irritation or dermatitis.
Swallowing - Moderately toxic. May obstruct airway. Can cause CNS depression.
Breathing - excessive breathing of vapours may cause nasal and respiratory irritation, dizziness, headache, and nausea. High concentrations may cause CNS depression.
Section 4 - First Aid Measures
Eye Contact: Immediately flush eyes with water for at least 15 minutes, lifting upper and lower eyelids occasionally. Get medical attention immediately.
Skin Contact: Wipe off wet material with a paper towel or rag. If dry, it will often peel or rub off. If not, use M.E.K., acetone or lacquer thinner to remove it. Thoroughly wash the exposed area with soap and water. Wash the exposed skin with soap and water.
Remove contaminated clothing and shoes. Will not wash out of clothing. If irritation develops and persists, get medical attention.
Inhalation: If affected, move the affected person to fresh air. If irritation persists get medical attention. If breathing has stopped, give artificial respiration and get medical attention immediately.
Ingestion: Get medical attention. If the product is swallowed, do NOT induce vomiting. Product may block the airway. Get medical attention immediately.
Section 5 - Fire-Fighting Measures
Flash Point: 21 F. / -6 C. (ASTM D-56 closed cup) Auto ignition Temp.: 885F / 474 C.
Lower Explosive Limit: 1.74% @ 200F Upper Explosive Limit: 11.4% @ 200F
Extinguishing Media: Water, carbon dioxide, dry chemical, alcohol foam.
Special Fire Fighting Procedures: None.
Unusual Fire And Explosion Hazards: None
Section 6 - Accidental Release Measures
Steps To Be Taken If Material Is Released Or Spilled: Eliminate all ignition sources and use a respirator if the spill is large. Dike to prevent entry into drains, sewers, streams and other bodies of water. If wet, small spills may be wiped up. When the material is tacky it may be shovelled or scraped up. Clean-up residue with a solvent such as MEK or acetone. Larger spills can be scooped into metal containers for disposal or absorbed onto oil dry or vermiculite. Rags and absorbent material are very flammable until the solvent has evaporated.
Section 7 - Handling and Storage
Do not use, pour, spill or store near heat, sparks, heating elements or open flame. Vapours could be ignited by pilot lights, other flames, sparks, heaters, smoking, electric motors, static discharge, or other ignition sources at a considerable distance from the source.
When pouring or transferring, ground the container being poured from to the container or tank being poured into with a wire and alligator clips.
Do not attempt to paint the inside of a large tank from the inside unless wearing a self-contained breathing apparatus to avoid being overcome by fumes. Death could result.
Empty containers retain product residue. Observe all hazard precautions given in this data sheet.

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